Paris in September... in no order.
Monday, September 29, 2014
Thursday, September 25, 2014
Excursions- Hits/Misses
These past weeks have been filled with academic excursions. Here's some info about four of the places that we visited...
This museum was about… the history of immigration and immigrants in France. It did not go over well with most of the group. Even though 75% of the museum was in French and most of the students don’t understand French, enough was understood to realize that this wasn’t a great museum. Not due to lack of artifacts, art, etc but rather that the museum glossed over a large part of France’s role in the lives of these immigrants… many of whom came from countries that France had colonized.
It wasn’t all rainbows and pink butterflies, but many of the descriptions around the artifacts/art and the informational plaques left out any major details of xenophobia that immigrants did encounter/do encounter in France. Also, not a whole not of talk about how the French colonies were… colonized.
This museum was about… the history of immigration and immigrants in France. It did not go over well with most of the group. Even though 75% of the museum was in French and most of the students don’t understand French, enough was understood to realize that this wasn’t a great museum. Not due to lack of artifacts, art, etc but rather that the museum glossed over a large part of France’s role in the lives of these immigrants… many of whom came from countries that France had colonized.
It wasn’t all rainbows and pink butterflies, but many of the descriptions around the artifacts/art and the informational plaques left out any major details of xenophobia that immigrants did encounter/do encounter in France. Also, not a whole not of talk about how the French colonies were… colonized.
History of French colonization
There are also spiral staircases that you are not allowed to climb on.
This museum was very dark. That’s the first thing I learned. Very low lighting everywhere, excluding the bathrooms.
The main exhibit presented art/artifacts from indigenous
cultures of Africa, Asia, Oceania, and the Americas. Everything was in one long
room, with display cases and things mounted on the wall in no particular
pattern (that I could see). You would wander through, and if you followed the
path correctly, you would see one region at a time.
“If the Marx Brothers designed a museum for dark people,
they might have come up with the permanent-collection galleries: devised as a
spooky jungle, red and black and murky, the objects in it chosen and arranged
with hardly any discernible logic, the place is briefly thrilling, as spectacle,
but brow-slappingly wrongheaded. Colonialism of a bygone era is replaced by a
whole new French brand of condescension.” NYT Travel Section Review
There were three temporary exhibits that I saw. Still in the
dark. Propaganda posters from Vietnam, tattoos (very cool), and “Tiki Pop.”
Tiki Pop was an exhibit on the influence of island life/the culture of Oceania
on North American pop culture in the 1960s. There were clips from movies/TV
shows produced at the time, posters, drinks, products, etc, all glorifying
island life.
The Catacombs are a popular place to be on a Wednesday morning
The catacombs were originally a quarry beneath Paris. In the
late 18th century the French started filling them with bones taken
from graveyards due to the “risk they posed to public health. ”There are
between 6-7 million bodies worth of bones down there.
Before the bones
It’s not just a pathway with bags of bones; they’re laid out
very neatly along the walkways. The skulls are laid out in patterns among the
long skinny bones (arm/leg bones, that’s as much as I know). Here's a photo of a
heart-shaped one. It was creepy.
Peace & Love
There were also plaques along the way...
In the morning, remember that you may not live until evening.
In the evening, remember that you may not live until morning.
That's all I've got for now! Back to work.
Sunday, September 21, 2014
Today is coffee. Coffee today. Coffee in France.
While I am in Paris I am taking classes online through my home university. It is definitely my toughest semester yet. Not because I'm away, but just the quantity of work. I've been spending a lot of my time here in front of my laptop- either at ISA, in the library, in a café, or in my hotel room. Staying awake- staying caffeinated- is important.
We all know I love Diet Coke more than most things on the planet, but Diet Coke can only do so much.
Anyway, the point is, coffee helps. So, here we go, coffee in France.
If you order a...
Café- it's espresso. Just espresso. I usually end up nursing it for a half hour it is so strong. And I am so weak. This is the standard drink.
Café allongé- espresso + water. Literally "elongated coffee".
Café filtré- filtered coffee, American style.
Café glacé- iced coffee. I've only seen these in chains.
Double/double express- espresso/double espresso.
Add déca on to the end of any order and it's decaf.
When you order your café au lait or avec crème (with milk or with cream) it costs about a euro more, at least in the places that I've gone to.
That's pretty much the menu. Not too glitzy. Intentionally.
We all know I love Diet Coke more than most things on the planet, but Diet Coke can only do so much.
Anyway, the point is, coffee helps. So, here we go, coffee in France.
If you order a...
Café- it's espresso. Just espresso. I usually end up nursing it for a half hour it is so strong. And I am so weak. This is the standard drink.
Café allongé- espresso + water. Literally "elongated coffee".
Café filtré- filtered coffee, American style.
Café glacé- iced coffee. I've only seen these in chains.
Double/double express- espresso/double espresso.
Add déca on to the end of any order and it's decaf.
When you order your café au lait or avec crème (with milk or with cream) it costs about a euro more, at least in the places that I've gone to.
That's pretty much the menu. Not too glitzy. Intentionally.
With sugar packets and a baby dessert to get rid of your coffee breath.
Where
French Places:
While I've been in Paris I have generally been getting my coffee at boulangeries, or bakeries. Most have a little coffee bar built into the side of the counter, next to all of the bread and pastries. You can sit outside ("sur place") or take it to go ("à emporter"). They generally will tack on .20 or .30 if you sit on-site.
I've also noticed a few French coffee shops- they're mostly in small spaces and don't have a huge menu. They don't seem like the type of place where you would set up shop for an afternoon with your laptop, headphones, and textbook. I know this because I have been told not to do this.
Non-French Places:
Costa Coffee- I have learned from a very trustworthy source that Costa Coffee is the Starbucks of the UK. They have recently hopped the English Channel (or la Manche, depending on which coast you're on) and come to France. There are eight in France, three in Paris proper. Huge room(s), lots of outlets, extensive menu. Many people with laptops.
Starbucks- There's one two blocks away from my hotel. There are also 49 others in Paris alone. I just counted. They look just like the ones in the US, except more snacks. The prices also seem to be the same, just in Euros, so multiply the cost of your normal Starbucks drink by 1.3 and that's how much it costs here.
The only reason I have been frequenting these two places is for their wifi. I did go today and get my first Pumpkin Spice Latte (ever) as a treat because I knew I was going to be doing schoolwork 80% of my day. It wasn't bad, but I don't know if it was worth the $6.40. Geez.
Neither Places:
Vending machines! The library has two of them. There are about 12 drinks listed- all for .90. Pick a drink, pick the amount of sugar you want, then your cup will drop down. There's one nozzle, and all of the ingredients come out one after another (as in it's not pre-made). When the drink is finished, a plastic stick drops into the cup so that you can stir it up.
Neither Places:
Vending machines! The library has two of them. There are about 12 drinks listed- all for .90. Pick a drink, pick the amount of sugar you want, then your cup will drop down. There's one nozzle, and all of the ingredients come out one after another (as in it's not pre-made). When the drink is finished, a plastic stick drops into the cup so that you can stir it up.
I edited out my last name on this JUST IN CASE.
I just read an interesting article entitled "Why Is Coffee in France La Merde?" I agree with most of what it has to say, especially that "Paris is a city of café culture, not coffee culture." It's all about the café atmosphere.
Get your wine there, get your pastries there, get your expensive clothes and your fashion inspiration there... but it's definitely not the best place I've gotten coffee.
Here's an infographic on coffee around the world- How to order coffee like a local in 31 countries.Get your wine there, get your pastries there, get your expensive clothes and your fashion inspiration there... but it's definitely not the best place I've gotten coffee.
Okay that's all. We've done a bunch of excursions and museum trips these past few weeks that I should probably share about. This just seemed easier.
I will though.
PS Did anyone hear that Sarko is back? He announced it via Facebook. The former president of France announced his return to politics. And he did it. on facebook.
Wednesday, September 10, 2014
First Few Days in Paris & Le Louvre
In Paris! Finally! What day is today. Wednesday? Yes it is Wednesday and I got here on Sunday morning. The days have been blurring together- we haven’t really gotten into routine mode here yet.
Our group is split between two nice, small hotels in the 5th arrondissement. To help you out, the Eiffel Tower is in the 7th, by the water… Notre Dame is on an island on the river between the 4th and 5th… the Louvre is in the 1st.
While we’re in Paris (and Morocco) our group is working with a study abroad provider called ISA. I used ISA when I studied in the Dominican Republic and had a great experience. The students have classes in the ISA Paris center, which is also in the 5th arrondissement right by Notre Dame.
My days so far have been spent exploring the 5th. I’m 95% sure I’ve been here before, but I can’t be sure. I get lost every time I go for a run in Paris, so it is quite likely that I have gotten lost here before.
We’re near the Sorbonne, so it’s a pretty student-y area. We’re also right near Rue Mouffetard, which is one of the oldest streets in Paris. Markets, restaurants with food from all over, cobbled windy streets, etc.
Tonight we went to the Louvre. Yes, I’ve been there before, but this was only the 2nd time I’ve had a guided tour. And the place is so big, you’re not going to see the same stuff every time. And I know/retain nothing about art, so even if I learned it before, it feels like I’m learning it for the first time.
Sorry
One of the more interesting paintings that I saw was La Liberté guidant le peuple (“Liberty Leading the People”… that’s a pretty easy one to translate on your own though) by Eugène Delacroix. It’s an image of a woman personifying Liberty holding the flag of the French Revolution (which is still today’s flag). The woman is Marianne, a symbol of France and the French Republic. I took a class on Nationalism last fall, and my final paper was on nationalistic symbols of France. Marianne pops up all over French artwork, architecture, euro coins, and stamps.
Go art
The evening ended with some galettes near our hotel. Galettes are like savory crêpes… both of which originated in Bretagne/Brittany, in the western part of France. This is where I’ve spent most of my time in France- many people I’ve met there are proud of such a French staple originating in their region. Anyway, it made me nostalgic and miss my time in Rennes. Of course, Paris itself has so much to offer that I’m sure I’ll discover/rediscover in these next few weeks.
Tomorrow is my day off and I already have chosen where I am going to go set up camp and do work. I’m used to being abroad and doing schoolwork (aka study abroad), I’m used to being abroad and working (as a Program Assistant) but this is the first time I’m doing both in the same semester. Must. Be. Productive. In. Paris.
Saturday, September 06, 2014
Blogging is back
Hello!
New address, same posts, same sarcastic commentary.
I started this blog in 2010 during the year I spent abroad in college. This blog could originally be found at rdominicana-lafrance.blogspot.com, because why choose an easier address, but I have since switched it to be more general...
Since MY year abroad, I have been so fortunate to continue to travel with students through my job at a study abroad office. In 2013 I spent six weeks in Nantes, France, and this summer I spent a month traveling around Greece and hiding from direct sunlight.
This time, I'll be traveling with students for about 3 months and going to 3 countries- France (my love), Morocco, and China.
The trip has had an eventful start. I should be eating something classy for dinner in a nice café in Paris right about now. Instead, I am in a Starbucks in Pittsburgh drinking an iced coffee and eating a Luna bar.
BACKTRACK so yesterday we were to fly out of Pittsburgh to Atlanta at 6, then fly from Atlanta to Paris at 830 or 9 or so. Caught a bus to campus, met up with some students, then took the 28X to the airport. We got there with more than enough time, everyone was there, no one had forgotten anything crucial, all good. We only had minor issues going through security. I got pulled aside- for the first time ever I think- because I had water in my Nalgene. I wasn't allowed to pour it out there (???) so I had to exit, pour it out outside, then go through security again. Just trying to stay hydrated PIT, just trying to stay hydrated.
We boarded the plane just a couple of minutes late. When we took off, I heard a loud noise underneath where I was sitting that I couldn't recall ever hearing before, but I assumed it was just because I was sitting directly above the wheels.
We're flying for about 20 minutes when the loudspeaker comes on and informs us that the landing gear/wheels/whatever didn't retract correctly so we need to turn around and land back in Pittsburgh. My question is, if the wheels are messed up already, why don't we just land in Atlanta because we're going to have the same issue either way? But I am not a pilot CLEARLY and there are many things I do not understand about planes.
I wasn't super concerned until we circled around the city for a second time and I noticed that the plane was going slower, then faster, then slower, then faster. Mini internal freak out. But I just sat there because really, what else could I do in that situation? Absolutely nothing.
We landed okay- the issue being that the wheels wouldn't go UP is probably a smaller issue than the wheels not going DOWN. However, when we landed the plane was immediately swarmed with like 3+ firetrucks. Which leads me to believe that this could've gone really, really poorly. Feeling very fortunate right now.
Had a conversation with the very nice people at the Delta counter who put us in a hotel for the night and rescheduled us to fly out tonight.
That would've been the end of the drama... but then I realized I couldn't find my passport. I NEVER lose my passport. Most prized possession. But I lost my passport.
I thought I left it on the plane, but I couldn't go check because the firemen/women were checking the plane. One of the agents went out to look for it, but she couldn't find it. I got slightly hysterical and she sent out another employee. He came back about 10 minutes later saying that he had to take the seat apart, but he found it. I hugged him. FAVORITE DELTA EMPLOYEE.
Yay big bed
Delta set us up at a hotel 15 minutes from the airport. I got a nice cookie, worked out, and relaxed in the two queen-sized beds in my room.
The next time you hear from me, HOPEFULLY I will be writing from Paris. FINGERS CROSSED.
New address, same posts, same sarcastic commentary.
I started this blog in 2010 during the year I spent abroad in college. This blog could originally be found at rdominicana-lafrance.blogspot.com, because why choose an easier address, but I have since switched it to be more general...
Since MY year abroad, I have been so fortunate to continue to travel with students through my job at a study abroad office. In 2013 I spent six weeks in Nantes, France, and this summer I spent a month traveling around Greece and hiding from direct sunlight.
Nearing sunset in Athens. On my bday btw.
This time, I'll be traveling with students for about 3 months and going to 3 countries- France (my love), Morocco, and China.
The trip has had an eventful start. I should be eating something classy for dinner in a nice café in Paris right about now. Instead, I am in a Starbucks in Pittsburgh drinking an iced coffee and eating a Luna bar.
BACKTRACK so yesterday we were to fly out of Pittsburgh to Atlanta at 6, then fly from Atlanta to Paris at 830 or 9 or so. Caught a bus to campus, met up with some students, then took the 28X to the airport. We got there with more than enough time, everyone was there, no one had forgotten anything crucial, all good. We only had minor issues going through security. I got pulled aside- for the first time ever I think- because I had water in my Nalgene. I wasn't allowed to pour it out there (???) so I had to exit, pour it out outside, then go through security again. Just trying to stay hydrated PIT, just trying to stay hydrated.
We boarded the plane just a couple of minutes late. When we took off, I heard a loud noise underneath where I was sitting that I couldn't recall ever hearing before, but I assumed it was just because I was sitting directly above the wheels.
We're flying for about 20 minutes when the loudspeaker comes on and informs us that the landing gear/wheels/whatever didn't retract correctly so we need to turn around and land back in Pittsburgh. My question is, if the wheels are messed up already, why don't we just land in Atlanta because we're going to have the same issue either way? But I am not a pilot CLEARLY and there are many things I do not understand about planes.
I wasn't super concerned until we circled around the city for a second time and I noticed that the plane was going slower, then faster, then slower, then faster. Mini internal freak out. But I just sat there because really, what else could I do in that situation? Absolutely nothing.
We landed okay- the issue being that the wheels wouldn't go UP is probably a smaller issue than the wheels not going DOWN. However, when we landed the plane was immediately swarmed with like 3+ firetrucks. Which leads me to believe that this could've gone really, really poorly. Feeling very fortunate right now.
Had a conversation with the very nice people at the Delta counter who put us in a hotel for the night and rescheduled us to fly out tonight.
That would've been the end of the drama... but then I realized I couldn't find my passport. I NEVER lose my passport. Most prized possession. But I lost my passport.
I thought I left it on the plane, but I couldn't go check because the firemen/women were checking the plane. One of the agents went out to look for it, but she couldn't find it. I got slightly hysterical and she sent out another employee. He came back about 10 minutes later saying that he had to take the seat apart, but he found it. I hugged him. FAVORITE DELTA EMPLOYEE.
Delta set us up at a hotel 15 minutes from the airport. I got a nice cookie, worked out, and relaxed in the two queen-sized beds in my room.
The next time you hear from me, HOPEFULLY I will be writing from Paris. FINGERS CROSSED.